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These slippers are worked from toe-up in the round so you don’t have to make a separate swatch.
This pattern is written for the magic loop method (it is assumed that the stitches are divided evenly over two needles) but you can easily adjust it for the double pointed needles as well.
The pattern is available for free below. Ad-free pdf-version is available on my Etsy shop.
Shoe size approximately US 7 and 9 (women) (EU 37/38 and EU 39/40).
You can adjust the sizes by using thicker or thinner yarn or adjusting needle size. For instance, you get size US 11 (EU 42) if you use bigger chart and adjust gauge to 24 sts & 24 rows / 4″ (10 cm).
The measurements are given for the finished slippers.
26 sts & 26 rows per 4″ (10 cm) in stranded colorwork after blocking
Scrap yarn, tapestry needle
US6 30″ (4mm 80cm) circular needle and for the ribbing US2.5 30″ (3mm 80cm) circular needle.
Adjust needle size to obtain the correct gauge.
If you need help with needle selection please read this guide.
The slippers on the images are knitted with Aran weight yarn Novita 7 veljestä (100g = 218 yds / 200m) The yarn is available on Lovecrafts (ships worldwide from US and UK). You can replace it with any Aran weight wool and nylon blend yarn. Also, rough wool that has no nylon should be durable enough. Good options for instance Wool of the Andes Worsted, Wool of the Andes Superwash and Chroma Twist Worsted by KnitPicks.
Shoe size US 7 (women) / EU 38
MC: Lapintaika mystiikka (816), 61g
CC: White (011), 39g
1 skein of both MC and CC or 218 yds (200 m) Aran weight yarn of both colors.
Please note that the yardage may vary if your gauge differs.
Knitting abbreviations used in this pattern you can find here.
With bigger needles and MC CO 18 (22) sts (9 (11) sts / needle). Sample uses the Turkish cast-on method. Work colorwork Chart A according to your size beginning from lower right corner. You can find the charts below.
Increases begin on round 2.
The increases are repeated every round a total of 10 times. You should have now a total of 58 (62) sts on your needles. Continue working according to the colorwork Chart A according to your size until you reach row 49 (53) where the stitches are marked with red color.
Round 49 or 53: Take a piece of scrap yarn in a different color and leaving the working yarns aside, use it to k the 29 (31) sts marked with red color. Then, transfer all those sts back to the left needle (without twisting) and work over the scrap yarn according to Chart A using the working yarns.
Continue working according to Chart A until it is time to begin the decreases on round 50 (54).
Break the yarn leaving approximately 12″ (30cm) tail of MC. The tail of CC can be shorter. With MC close the heel using the Kitchener stitch.
Remove the waste yarn, placing the live stitches onto two needles. The sts below the scrap yarn are on Needle 1 and sts above the scrap yarn are on Needle 2. You should now have a total of 58 (62) sts, 29 (31) sts on each needle.
Work sts 1-29 (1-31) according to row 2 of Chart B. With MC pick up and knit 2 sts. The picked-up sts will be sts 30 and 31 (32 and 33) on Chart B.
Work sts 32-60 (34-64) according to row 2 of Chart B. With MC pick up and knit 2 sts. The picked-up sts will be sts 61 and 62 (65 and 66) on Chart B.
Work the rest of the rows according to Chart B. Break CC. K one row with MC.
Smaller size next round: (k8, k2tog) 2 times, (k9, k2tog) 2 times, (k8, k2tog) 2 times.
A total of 56 sts.
Bigger size next round: (k9, k2tog) repeat 6 times
A total of 60 sts.
With smaller needles work 2″ [5 cm] of ribbing *(k1, p1) repeat from * to BOR. BO using the tubular bind-off method.
Weave in ends and block your slippers.
I would be happy to see your version! You can share it with me on Instagram by tagging me @knitgrammer or leaving a review with an image below.
I’m Ida a 30 something engineer living in Lapland, Finland. I love knitting and programming, hence the nickname Knitgrammer. In my blog you’ll find tools (knitting calculators and interactive patterns) which will save you some trouble and do the knitting math for you.
My design philosophy is to make simple, useful, and beautiful things. If I make something I (or my kids or husband) don’t enjoy wearing I won’t publish the pattern.
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