This article is part of my no swatch, any stitch count, any yarn mittens pattern. For introduction and outline of this pattern see: Knitgrammer’s no swatch, any stitch count, any yarn mittens pattern.
The increases are worked every round on both sides creating a knit stitch band on each side of the mitten.
m1l = Make a left leaning increase. Make yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn over through the back loop OR pick up the bar between the stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from front to back and then knit into the back of the stitch.
m1r = Make a right leaning increase. Work a backwards yarn over, on the next round knit the front of the stitch OR pick up the bar between the last stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from the back to the front and then knit into the front of this stitch.
CO 8 sts, four (4) sts / needle. You can use for instance Turkish cast on method or Judy’s magic cast on.
Knit one round.
Needle 1: k1, m1r, k to last st, m1l, k1
Needle 2: k1, m1r, k to last st, m1l, k1
Now continue in a similar manner and increase 4 stitches every round until you reach the desired width.
In the table below are listed the typical stitch counts for mittens. Number of stitches depends on your hand size and knitting gauge so your stitch count may be outside the range but the table should give you a rough idea.
Typical stitch counts for mittens:
|Fingering||34 – 48||44 – 56||50 – 64|
|DK||32 – 38||42 – 46||46 – 52|
|Worsted, Aran||26 – 32||34 – 44||38 – 48|
|Chunky||24 – 28||30 – 34||34 – 38|
After you have finished the increases continue working in the round until the mitten covers the top of your hand from the tip of your longest finger to the base of the thumb or according to the measurement A on the size chart.