Pattern

Knitting abbreviations used in this pattern you can find here.

The Ladder-Back Jacquard technique is used in the colorwork section and the fabric is thus stretchier than stranded colorwork would produce. If you knit stranded colorwork you might need more stitches or bigger needles for that specific section.

1. Cuff

Ribbing

With C1 CO 56 (60, 64, 68, 72) sts. Divide evenly over 2 needles: 28 (30, 32, 34, 36) sts each needle.

Join for knitting in the round. 

Work 10 rows (or desired length) of ribbing *(ktbl1, p1) repeat from * to beginning of round.

K one round.

Increase round

• Needle 1: k1, k1fb, k to 2 sts from end, k1fb, k1.
• Needle 2: Work the same way as Needle 1.

You should now have a total of 60 (64, 68, 72, 76) sts. K two more rounds and then start working the colorwork Chart A according to your size. Work the chart on both needles.

Tip: The colorwork contains long floats. For stretchy fabric, I recommend the Ladder-Back Jacquard technique. 

Chart A

After finishing the colorwork section k one row with C1.

Decrease round

• Needle 1: k1, k2tog, k to 2 sts from end, k2tog, k1.
• Needle 2: Work the same way as Needle 1.

A total of 56 (60, 64, 68, 72) sts.

K three more rows with C1 and then start working the stripes pattern.

Stripes pattern

• C2: k 2 rows
• C1: k 8 rows
• C2: k 3 rows
• C1: k 7 rows
• C2: k 4 rows
• C1: k 6 rows
• C2: k 5 rows. After working one row start working the heel.
• C1: k 5 rows
• C2: k 6 rows
• C1: k 4 rows
• C2: k 7 rows
• C1: k 3 rows
• C2: k 8 rows
• C1: k 2 rows

After finishing the stripes pattern continue working with C2.

2. Heel

This pattern comes with a short row heel also known as an hourglass heel. The short row method used here is the german short row. 

You should now be at the end of Needle 2. The following rows 1-3 are worked with C2 on Needle 2 only. Turn your work.

Tip: For a cleaner look work the heel of the right foot sock on Needle 1 instead of Needle 2. 

• Row 1 (WS): mds, p to end, turn.
• Row 2 (RS): mds, k to double stitch, turn.
• Row 3 (WS): mds, p to double stitch, turn.

Repeat rows 2 & 3 until the last row you worked was mds, k 10 (10, 10, 12, 12). You should now have 9 (10, 11, 11, 12) double stitches at each end of the Needle 2 and 10 (10, 10, 12, 12) regular stitches in the middle. Continue working the row and k the 9 (10, 11, 11, 12) double stitches (knit through both legs of the double stitch).

Round 1

• Needle 1: k all
• Needle 2: k 9 (10, 11, 11, 12) double stitches, k 19 (20, 21, 23, 24)

Round 2

• Needle 1: k all
• Needle 2: k all

Round 3

• Needle 1: k all
• Needle 2: k 20 (21, 22, 24, 25)

Heel continues. The following rows 1-3 are worked with C2 on Needle 2 only. Turn your work.

• Row 1 (WS): mds, p 11 (11, 11, 13, 13), turn.
• Row 2 (RS): mds, k to double stitch. K the double stitch and 1 st after it, turn.
• Row 3 (WS): mds, p to double stitch. P the double stitch and 1 st after it, turn.

Repeat rows 2 & 3 until you are on the right side and the last stitch of the needle is a double stitch. Knit the stitch. 

The heel is now finished. Continue working in the round.

3. Foot & toe

Begin the toe shaping when the length of the foot is 1.9 (2.1, 2.3, 2.3, 2.5)″ [4.8, 5.2, 5.7, 5.7, 6.2] cm less than the desired length. 

Toe shaping

Decrease round

• Needle 1: k1, ssk, k to 3 sts from end, k2tog, k1
• Needle 2: Work the same way as Needle 1.

Decrease a total of 10 (11, 12, 12, 13) times every other round. 

A total of 16 (16, 16, 20, 20) sts remaining.

Break the yarn leaving approximately 12″ (30cm) tail. Close the toe using the Kitchener stitch. If the Kitchener stitch is not a familiar technique please see this tutorial.

Finishing

Weave in ends and block your socks.