Pattern

Knitting abbreviations used in this pattern you can find here.

The pattern is written for the magic loop method, but can be adjusted for double pointed needles. If you are using the magic loop method I recommend making these socks one at a time because of the heel construction.

1. Toe

With smaller needles and MC CO 6 (8, 8, 8, 8) sts on each needle. You should now have a total of 12 (16, 16, 16, 16) sts. Sample uses Turkish cast-on method.

K one round.

1.1 Increases

Round 1

• Needle 1: k1, k1fb, k to 2 sts from end, k1fb, k1.
• Needle 2: Work the same way as Needle 1.

Repeat round 1 a total of 4 (4, 4, 5, 5) times. You should now have a total of 28 (32, 32, 36, 36) sts.

Round 2

• Needle 1: k all sts.
• Needle 2: Work the same way as Needle 1.

Repeat rounds 2 & 1 a total of 7 (7, 8, 8, 9) times. You should now have a total of 56 (60, 64, 68, 72) sts.

2. Foot

Work in stockinette until the foot of your sock measures 2.5 (2.7, 2.9, 3.1, 3.3)″ [6.4, (6.8, 7.3, 7.7, 8.2) cm] less than desired length.

3. Heel

Knit until you are at the beginning of Needle 2.

3.1 Gusset increases and short row shaping

The following rows are worked flat.

• Row 1 (RS): k to last st of needle 2, k1fb, k1, turn. 
• Row 2 (WS): mds (slip the double stitch back to needle 1), p to first st of needle 2, p1fb, p1, turn. 
• Row 3 (RS): mds (slip the double stitch back to needle 1), k to  1st before double st, k1fb, turn.
• Row 4 (WS): mds, p 1st before to double st, p1fb, turn.

Repeat rows 3 & 4 once more.

• Row 5 (RS): mds, k to 3 sts before double st, k1fb, k1, turn.
• Row 6 (WS): mds, p to 3 sts before double st, p1fb, p1, turn.
• Repeat rows  5 and 6 until the last row you worked was mds, p6, p1fb, p1, turn. 

On the following rows when you reach a double stitch knit it as if it was one stitch.

Row 7 (RS):  mds, k to end of the Needle 2

Resume working in the round.

Round 1

• Needle 1: k to end
• Needle 2: work the same way as Needle 1

You should now have a total of 28 (30, 32, 34, 36) regular sts on Needle 1 and 56 (60, 64, 68, 72) regular sts on Needle 2.

3.2 Heel decreases and cable pattern

Round 1 (odd rounds on Chart A)

• Needle 1: Work in stockinette
• Needle 2: k 8 (9, 10, 11, 12), work sts 1-6 of Chart A, k until 14 (15, 16, 17, 18) sts remain, work sts 8-13 of Chart A, k 8 (9, 10, 11, 12)

Round 2 (even rounds on Chart A):

• Needle 1: Work in stockinette
• Needle 2: k 8 (9, 10, 11, 12), work sts 1-6 of Chart A, ssk, k until 16 (17, 18, 19, 20) sts remain, k2tog, work sts 8-13 of Chart A, k 8 (9, 10, 11, 12)

Repeat rounds 1 & 2 until you are finished with row 35 on Chart A.

Round 3

• Needle 1: Work in stockinette
• Needle 2: k 8 (9, 10, 11, 12), work sts 1-13 of Chart A, k 8 (9, 10, 11, 12)

Repeat round 3 until Chart A is finished. You should now have a total of  56 (60, 64, 68, 72) sts.

4. Cuff

4.1 Colorwork

Work in stockinette 1.6″ [4 cm] or until the leg of your sock measures 1.7″ [4.3 cm] less than desired length. 

• Sizes 60, 64, 68, 72 sts: Change to bigger needles. 
• Size 56 sts only: *(k1fb, k14) repeat from * to beginning of round. You should have a total of 60 sts.

Work Colorwork Chart B according to your size, beginning at lower right corner. With MC work 2 more rows in stockinette.

Chart B

4.2 Ribbing

Change back to smaller needles.

Work 10 rows (or desired length) of ribbing *(k1 tbl, p1) repeat from * to beginning of round. BO using some stretchy bind off method. Sample uses russian bind off.

4. Finishing

Weave in ends and block your socks.