When I first began making toe up socks the hardest part for me was to figure out when to start making the heel. The math itself is not difficult but still it takes some time. I have saved you some trouble and I made this simple pattern which gives you the instructions how to make a flap and gusset heel for your toe up sock. This recipe works for any yarn and gauge and it requires no picking up of stitches. All you need to know is the total amount of stitches you have per sock and your row gauge and you’ll get detailed instructions how to make the heel.
This pattern is part of my no swatch, any stitch count, any yarn sock pattern.
I usually like to knit my sole, heel and gusset stitches in stockinette. It means that if I make a ribbed sock I usually work in ribbing only on needle 1 (instep needle) but the sole stitches (needle 2) including the gusset stitches I work in stockinette. After finishing the heel I start to work in ribbing also on needle 2.
sts on my needles rows / 4” (10cm).
This pattern is written for the magic loop method but can be adjusted for the double pointed needles as well.
You should now have a total of 56 sts divided evenly on two needles (28 sts on each needle). From toe up knit until your work measures 4’’ [10 cm] less than desired length. Start the gusset increases.
Needle 1: k all
Needle 2: m1r, k to end, m1l
Needle 1: k all
Needle 2: k all
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 11 more times. 24 sts increased on needle 2.
You have now 12 gusset sts on each end of needle 2 and 30 sts in the middle. A total of 54 sts on needle 2. While working the short rows the gusset sts are on hold.
Short row shaping
K until you are at the beginning of needle 2. The following rows 1-4 are worked on needle 2 only.
Row 1 (RS): k until 12 sts remain, turn.
Row 2 (WS): mds, p until 12 sts remain, turn.
Row 3 (RS): mds, k to double st, turn.
Row 4 (WS): mds, p to double st, turn.
Repeat rows 3 & 4 until the last row you worked was mds, k 10. Do not turn your work.
On needle 2 you should now have 12 gusset sts, 10 double sts, 10 regular sts on the right needle and 10 double sts and 12 gusset sts on the left needle.
K to last double sts, ssk, turn (k together through the back loop the last double sts with the first gusset st on hold.) Please note that double sts are knitted and purled through both legs.
Row 1 (WS): sl1, p to last double st, p2tog, turn
Row 2 (RS): sl1, k to slipped st, ssk, turn
Row 3 (WS): sl1, p to slipped st, p2tog, turn
Repeat rows 2 & 3 until you have one gusset st left at each end of the needle 2 (a total of 28 sts left on needle 2).
Round 3 (RS): sl1, k to slipped st, ssk, continue working in the round and k all sts on Needle 1, k2tog the first two sts on Needle 2, k to end of Needle 2.
You should have a total of 56 sts (28 sts on each needle).
The heel is now finished. Continue working in the round.
k = knit
m1l = make one left = from front lift up the thread between two stitches with left needle and knit that stitch in the back loop. Great tutorial here.
m1r = make one right = from back lift up the thread between two stitches with left needle and knit that stitch in front loop. Great tutorial here.
mds = make double stitch = Slip 1 stitch
purlwise with yarn in front. Bring yarn up,
over and back to pull on the slipped stitch
until it slides around to show two legs. If you are unfamiliar with the technique see a tutorial with images here.
p = purl
p2tog = purl two stitches together
rs = right side
sl = slip stitch purlwise
ssk = Slip, slip, knit = slip 1 stitch knitwise, slip another stitch knitwise, then slide the left-hand needle into the front part of both stitches and knit them together
st = stitch
ws = wrong side