Knitgrammer’s no swatch, any stitch count, any yarn sock pattern. Part 3: Making the heel for your sock

This article is part of my no swatch, any stitch count, any yarn sock pattern. For introduction and outline of this pattern see: Knitgrammer’s no swatch, any stitch count, any yarn sock pattern.

Previous article: Casting on & making the toe.

Next article: Binding-off your sock so that the bind-off edge won’t end up being too tight or loose.

You should now have finished your toe and it is time to select what kind of heel you would like to make. Now in addition to stitch count, you also need to know your row gauge so measure how many rows per 4” (10 cm) there are on your sock.

At this point might be that the length of your sock is not yet 4” (10 cm). If you are making an adult sock work until your sock measures 4” (10 cm) or then you can measure for instance how many rows you have per 1” and multiply that number with 4 (rows / 1cm and multiply that number with 10).

The desired length mentioned on the heel patterns refers to the length of your socks foot.

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Now go ahead and select a heel pattern from below!

I recommend you to use short row or afterthought heel for socks which have short foot (basically baby socks). That is because if your sock is really short might be that you are not able to make all of the required gusset increases before the heel turn and the foot will become longer than intended.

I usually like to knit heels 3.1 – 3.3 in stockinette and after finishing the heel I continue in ribbing on both needles.

3.1 German short row heel

Short row heel also known as hourglass heel is the one used in most commercial socks. It is symmetrical and you make it exactly the same way regardless if you knit your sock from the toe up or cuff down.

You can find the german short row heel pattern here.

If you would like to make a contrasting color short row heel without a stripe on instep see this pattern.

3.2 Afterthought heel

The afterthought heel is the ideal heel type for colorwork socks or socks knitted with self-striping yarn. It can be used also for the perfectly symmetrical contrasting color heel. Similarly to the short row heel, you make it exactly the same way regardless if you start your sock from toe or cuff.

This is probably the easiest heel pattern.

You can find the afterthought heel pattern here.

3.3 Flap and gusset heel

This heel should fit you well even if you have a high arch and at it stays on it’s place very well. However, this pattern is a bit more difficult than the previous two.

The pattern requires no picking up of stitches.

You can find the flap and gusset heel pattern here.

3.4 Reinforced flap and gusset heel

This heel is worked the same way as the plain flap and gusset heel but instead of stockinette the heel is worked with a slip stitch pattern in order to make it more durable.

You can find the flap and gusset heel pattern here.

Now that you are finished with your heel work in the round until you reach the desired length for your leg. If you are gifting the socks you can check the typical sock lengths here. I like to work at least 10 rows of either 1 by 1 or 2 by 2 ribbing on the cuff before binding off.

After finishing the leg of your sock you are ready to bind-off your socks.

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